Grow Long Hair Part Two: Encourage Growth

Welcome back to our long hair journey! If you missed the first post on growing long hair where we talked about preventing damage, check that out here. In this part we’ll be talking about how you can help encourage growth in your hair. We’ll look at which foods your hair loves, deep conditioning masks, protective hairstyles, and why you should get fewer haircuts. But first, let’s define a few things to help us understand our hair better.

Hair Growth Cycle

Hair has different phases it goes through. The first phase is anagen, the growth phase. Some people have a longer anagen phase, which allows their hair more time to grow. Also, all other hairs on the body have a shorter anagen phase; this is why we don’t need to trim our eyelashes for example.

The second phase is catagen, the transitional phase. Hairs in this stage are transitioning from growth to rest and have reached their maximum length. The root of the hair is solidified and hair growth slows.

The telogen, or resting, phase. Your hair is preparing to shed and has stopped growing. New hairs start growing beneath these hairs that are readying to shed.

The exogen phase is the final, shedding, phase. The hairs fall away on their own or are helped along with styling/washing. And the process starts again.

Check out this article for more information about these phases.

Terminal Length

The next thing we need to talk about is terminal length. What is it and why do we need to know about it? Terminal length is like this pre-programed point that your hair won’t grow past. For some people that could be down to the floor, for others that could be shoulder length. This length is determined by the anagen phase of hair growth. If you have a shorter anagen phase, your hair doesn’t have as much time to grow. The average length of the anagen phase is between two and six years.

From my understanding, there isn’t much you can do if you’ve hit your terminal length. But if you cut out the damage (like we talked about last time) and work on encouraging growth (like we’re about to go over), you might learn that your hair isn’t at its terminal length. Instead, your hair might just need something it isn’t getting. So give these tips a try, long hair might be just around the corner. Your hair might surprise you.

Fewer Haircuts, but…

One of the simplest things you can do if you want longer hair is to get fewer haircuts. On average, hair grows about half an inch (a bit over a centimeter) a month, or a total of six inches (fifteen centimeters) a year. This means if you follow the traditional recommendation to trim an inch off every eight weeks, you’d cut off any growth grains you’d made. Instead, if you can hold off on a haircut for double or triple that time you’ll make actual length gains.

Additionally, get a haircut that will still look good as it grows out. When I started growing my hair out I had an asymmetrical cut with one side reaching my jawline and the other reaching my cheekbone. I had to get more regular cuts at the beginning because it looked awkward as it grew out to the same length again. Now that my hair is pretty much one length, it’s easy to go longer between haircuts.

Trim Those Split Ends

Although I’m advocating for fewer haircuts, you can still spot-trim any split ends you find. This helps extend the look and feel of your hair between cuts. Pull your hair over one shoulder, detangle it, and run your hands over the length of your hair. Anywhere that feels extra rough is a good indication of split ends to spot-trim.

Lift that rough section up to a light and look for split ends or broken hairs that stick out. Then, take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off those damaged ends. Cutting off the damaged ends when you notice them prevents the damage from moving farther up the hair shaft, which saves you from having to cut more hair off later.

Your Hair’s Thirsty

Hair (especially long hair) can dry out easily, so adding moisture back in is important. I mentioned loving to make a deep-conditioning hair mask as part of our pamper day in this post. Time to go into more detail about that process!

My favorite homemade hair mask is coconut oil based. Why coconut oil? My hair likes it and I always have it in the house. But more scientifically, coconut oil absorbs into the hair instead of sitting on top and has antimicrobial properties.

The next hair mask ingredients are determined by what my hair (or scalp) needs. If it’s feeling extra dry, like during the depths of winter, I’ll add a thicker oil like castor or avocado. Itchy/inflamed scalp means I’ll add tea tree or rosemary oil. And for a nice calming effect before bed I’ll add lavender oil.

Heating up the coconut oil until it melts makes it easier to mix everything together. You can apply it warm and liquidy if you like, but I prefer to chill mine in the fridge until it solidifies (or nearly solidifies). Next, use a spoon to whip up the mixture, making it lighter and easier to work with than a solid chunk.

Here’s a list of supplies you should have on hand before you start applying:

• Hair Mask
• Wide-Toothed Comb
• Towel or Shirt (that can get oily)
• Shower Cap or Plastic Bag (for oily head)
• Hair Clip
• Optional: Winter Hat

Let’s Apply:

Put on a shirt that can get oily or wrap a towel around your shoulders, securing with a hair clip. Invert your head and allow your hair to dangle toward the floor. Scoop a nickel sized amount into your hands and rub together for a moment. Then, smooth the mixture onto your scalp near the base of your neck, being careful to apply it in the same direction as the hair grows.

Take the section that was just oiled and throw it down your back. Grab another nickel sized amount and repeat until your entire scalp is coated and your hair is all going the same direction down your back.

Next, pull your length over one shoulder. Grab more of the mixture and smooth down your mid-lengths. Be sure to comb through with your fingers to ensure all of your hair is coated. Repeat this for the ends of your hair as well.

Smooth all of your hair back like you’re going to put it into a low ponytail. Use a wide-toothed comb to ensure there’s no tangles. Instead of a low ponytail, twist your hair into a bun. At this point you can remove the towel and use the clip to secure the end of your bun.

Time for the most fashionable part of this whole moisturizing journey: tying a bag around your head (or putting on a shower cap). I have a washable shower cap that I love to use for hair masks like this, but I’m no stranger to being a bag-head either. Cap the whole thing off with a winter hat if you want to help hold in the heat.

This can sit on your head for twenty minutes as a quick moisture boost, or overnight for a deep conditioning treatment.

Protective Styles for Long Hair

What are protective styles? Protective styles are hairstyles that tuck the hair away and keep it free from manipulation (thanks Wikipedia). Basically, your hair is more protected if it’s up and out of your face in one or more braids, buns, twists, etc. I touched on this in Part One of this post about preventing damage, but these styles can be worn more often than those specific scenarios. They keep your hair safe and help lock in moisture.

As someone with mostly-straight, long hair, my favorite protective styles are braids and buns. In fact, one of the reasons I grew my hair out in the first place was to learn these neat hairstyles. French, dutch, rope, fishtail, and four/ five strand braids. I love them all. Buns are a little more niched-down. I like my hair to be out of my face, smooth (tangle-free), and secure (not floppy). This means my go-to buns are closer to ballerina than messy.

Whatever your style — tightly wrapped twists, double buns, or ambitious multi-strand braids — your hair will be able to grow longer if you use a protective style to keep it safe.

Eat Your Way to Long Hair

The best way to help your hair grow longer is to feed it from the inside. When I was a picky eater, I struggled with my hair. It broke often and I had a lot of frizz. Once I started eating a more balanced diet, my hair began to thrive and grow more quickly. The funny part (to me at least) is that my gateway vegetable into being less picky, spinach, is full of hair-growing nutrients! Those nutrients are vitamins A and C, iron, and folate.

Other nutrients your hair loves are: protein, omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin E, zinc, selenium, vitamin D, biotin, and B vitamins. The lack of some of these hair-loving nutrients could slow down hair growth or even cause hair loss. Avocados, sweet peppers, and nuts are some great sources of these nutrients. Read more about what foods are loaded with these hair-loving nutrients here.

Final Thoughts

Growing out your hair may take time, but if you follow these tips to help encourage growth, you’ll be reaching your long hair goals before you know it! It took me about six years to grow my hair from chin-length to tailbone, so be a little patient with your hair (and yourself). Let me know which of these tips you found most helpful in the comments. Good luck on your journey to long hair!

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